Snack … all the time If you’re happy to swap a sit-down meal in a restaurant for a stand-up snack, you can save a fortune – as well as getting a chance to rub shoulders with the locals. A proper Italian breakfast is cheap and fast – coffee and a pastry knocked back standing at the counter of a pasticceria. Da Bonifacio (Castello 4237, Calle degli Albanesi) is moments away from the tourist heave of the San Marco ferry terminal, hidden down a crooked passage to the left of the Danieli Hotel. Order an espresso and a sweet, comforting tortino di riso, a pastry filled with rice pudding, fresh from the oven. At lunchtime seek out one of the many bacari that pepper the city. These are small bars that serve ciccheti (tapas-like snacks for €1-€2). As well as being a fantastic way to fill up cheaply, they’re usually full of locals: stylish, loud, downing prosecco and crostini topped with paper-thin prosciutto or creamed salt cod. You can find a bacaro on most corners, but we loved All’Arco on Calle Arco, which is full of old men and ladies with tiny dogs, and Alla Vedova on Ca D’Oro, where we tucked… Read full this story
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