You may not have seen the commercial in years, but you’d recognize the setup instantly. Sweeping chords play and a day-dreaming, bespectacled housewife sighs as the screen does that fuzzy flashback fade. There are quick shots of vaguely fairy tale locales—an Italian palazzo, stately fountains, a rose garden straight out of Beauty And The Beast—and our suburban soccer mom reappears in flowing gown and sparkling jewels. Then we pan to the best gem of all: Fabio with his golden mane and an accent so stereotypically exotic you might cry at the TV, “I can’t believe!” Whether the cheesy romance shtick tapped into repressed urges of middle-aged women or customers were swayed by the mounting health warnings against cholesterol and saturated fats, the Italian model helped sell a lot of margarine in the ’90s and pushed I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter! to the top of the category. Today, though, margarine’s role in the kitchen has diminished. The one-time star of healthier eating has lost much luster as America’s love for processed food wanes in favor of the full-flavored, “real” foods of yore. Even Unilever—the maker of America’s two top margarine brands, I Can’t Believe and Country Crock—is exiting the margarine… Read full this story
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